Concrete is Removed to Expose Footing Wall Joint:
The concrete is broken out in the area of the sump pump install. Jackhammers are used and some dust is expected. For people increased sensitivities to dust, we have negative air machines available to move the dusty air directly out of the house.

Sump Pit Excavated:
A pit is excavated approximately 28"deep and 24" wide to accommodate the sump pump liner. In silty pits we also wrap the liner in filter fabric as an extra line of defense from soupy silt that can clog the pump intake.

Sump Pump Liner Installation:
The sump pump liner is installed and packed with gravel to prevent silt from getting into the liner through the perforations or any pipe penetrations. Our standard liner is perforated to admit ground water. We also have non-perforated, fully air tight liners for high water table applications and/or radon gas re-mediation. We do not subscribe to the "one size fits all" theory of sump pump liners. This is the most important part of your system and it must be done correctly if it is to last a lifetime.

Sump Pump Installation:
Sump pump is installed on the bottom of the liner. Our standard sump pump is a Liberty ¼ HP with a vertical float. We favor vertical floats to "wide angle" floats because in our experience the wide angle floats tend to get caught up on the equipment in the liner.

Discharge Pipe Installed:
A discharge pipe is installed through to the exterior of your home. We run all 1.5" rigid ABS or PVC pipe for our discharges. Thin plastic corrugated hoses are cheap and easy to install but they are not nearly as durable. It is more work to use rigid pipe but the quality is far superior.

Concrete is Re-Poured:
When we install an internal dewatering system, we also install gravel and/or a drain track on top of the footing to improve drainage. The concrete is then re-poured and troweled smooth to match the existing floor.